To Celebrate or not to Celebrate: Mapping out Champagne

About a year ago Alice Paillard of Bruno Paillard Champagne came into the store to taste us on some of her wines. I remember being hugely impressed with their quality and complexity. So, when I saw Alice from across the room at a recent Vintus Tasting at the Skirball center last week, I was quick to greet her. After tasting me on her Brut Première, Rose Première, the Blanc de Blancs Reserve Privee, and the 1996 Vintage Champagne, I asked her what she thought about the proposed “expansion” of the Champagne A.O.C. During the course of an hour (or possibly longer) Alice first explained that it isn’t so much an “expansion” as it is a “renovation.” The modern history of Champagne is an interesting one.  Champagne became one of the first AOCs in France just after Phylloxora hit the region. Once the recovery began to take place, the local government decided to begin mapping out the region. So, they sent out letters to Champagne house owners, requesting details about their land. Naturally, many of these landlords were more preoccupied with harvesting their grapes and feeding their families than drawing out maps. But, later when the official AOC laws were enacted, these maps were used to determine the organization of the region. So, the land belonging to those unfortunate farmers who didn’t have the time to submit a map was left out of the AOC. For that reason when one gazes at the hillsides surrounding Reims, one will notice a few random pieces of bare land amidst the lush vines. Those pieces of bare land are now under consideration for AOC status and this is what Alice meant when she said that the law will be more of a “remodel” than an “expansion” even though there will certainly be a little bit of expansion into the outlying areas. Alice sees this as a good thing, because it will allow the production of Champagne to increase without harming its quality.   

Speaking of quality, the Paillard wines are amazing, especially their 1996 Vintage Champagne. I had tasted the ’96 before, but it seems like it is improving with age although it is by no means youthful (like the ’96 Salon, for instance). I asked Alice about the label and she explained that every time they make a vintage Champagne, she and her father sit down in the office and taste it. Then, together they come up with three or four words to describe it. They meet with an artist and share their experience. The artist then goes off and creates a image, which Alice and her father will use for the label. This process was of particular interest to me and It’s a beautiful idea for a beautiful wine.  Thank you Alice for such a wonderful conversation!

Cheers,

Ben